Skirts at Prada, Demna’s second act at Gucci, a new era at Moschino and a very emotional Sunday. Here’s your week.
Milan has officially started, and it began on a high. Prada opened the week on Tuesday afternoon with a collection devoted entirely to the skirt, and by the time Vogue World lit up the Galleria that evening, the whole city was already in show mode. Between now and Monday 28 September, the Spring/Summer 2027 collections will fill every palazzo, warehouse and courtyard from Tortona to Porta Venezia.
This isn’t a season of debuts. It’s a season of second chances. Last February, almost every major house in Milan handed the keys to a new designer. September is when those designers find out whether their first collection was the start of something or just a very good opening line. Add a brand-new Moschino, The Attico’s tenth birthday and a clutch of international newcomers, and the schedule is packed.
So we’ve done what we always do: read the calendar far too many times, argued over the best slots and picked the shows you really need to know about. Here’s the full week at a glance, then the twelve shows we’ll be talking about for months. We know, it’s a tough job etc.
Milan Fashion Week SS27 at a glance
Best for setting the tone: Prada
Best second act: Gucci
Best new beginning: Moschino
Best party: The Attico
Best evening slot: Bottega Veneta
Best for craft obsessives: Ferragamo
Best for tears in the front row: Giorgio Armani
The week, day by day
Tuesday 22 September
14:00 Prada · 16:00 Diesel · Evening: Vogue World: Milano in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Wednesday 23 September
10:30 Jil Sander · 14:00 Fendi · 16:00 Missoni · 17:00 MM6 Maison Margiela · 19:00 Etro
Thursday 24 September
09:30 Max Mara · 14:00 Marni · 16:00 Alberta Ferretti · 18:00 Roberto Cavalli · 20:00 Emporio Armani
Friday 25 September
09:30 Tod’s · 11:30 Sportmax · 12:30 Blumarine · 14:00 Gucci · 17:00 Moschino · 19:00 The Attico
Saturday 26 September
11:30 Ferragamo · 12:30 Dolce&Gabbana · 14:00 MSGM · 20:00 Bottega Veneta
Sunday 27 September
11:00 Giorgio Armani · 12:00 Milano Moda Graduate · 13:00 Marques’Almeida
Monday 28 September
All-digital day, just as Paris Fashion Week begins
Show-hopping without an invitation-only car? Shuttle buses leave daily from Piazza Duomo, on the corner with Piazza dei Mercanti.
Prada
When:Â Tuesday 22 September, 14:00
Where:Â Fondazione Prada, Via Lorenzini 14
Why we love it: Prada moved from its usual Thursday slot to open the week, and it was the right call. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons built the entire collection around a single garment, the skirt, and then took it in every possible direction. There were sheer, pleated skirts, severe wrap skirts slit almost to the hip, and pencil skirts covered in glass-crystal flowers. Some wraps even fastened with Velcro studded with crystals, which is about as Prada as it gets.
Not a trouser in sight. The styling was pure Miuccia, with humble jumpers, cotton shirts, bralettes and ladylike bags. Simons brought his chunky leather coats and a little rave energy. Outside, the best-dressed guests in Milan queued for an espresso at Bar Luce, as ever. We’re calling it now: next summer is a skirt summer.
Fendi
When:Â Wednesday 23 September, 14:00
Where:Â Via Solari 35
Why we love it: Maria Grazia Chiuri started her career at Fendi before becoming the first woman to lead Dior, so her return to Rome’s most famous fur-and-leather house felt like a homecoming. Her first collection split opinion. It was restrained, low on colour and full of nods to the five Fendi sisters who built the brand. That makes her second show far more important than her first. Watch the bags, particularly the Baguette, which she’s already begun to rework.
Jil Sander
When:Â Wednesday 23 September, 10:30
Where:Â Location on the invitation (natch)
Why we love it: Simone Bellotti has quickly become one of Milan’s most respected designers, making clothes that look simple until you notice how they’re cut. His collections reward a second look: precise seams, clean shapes and pieces you’ll still wear in a decade. This is the show to watch if you like minimalism with a bit of edge.
Max Mara
When:Â Thursday 24 September, 09:30
Where:Â Via Piranesi 14
Why we love it: Some shows are about fireworks. Max Mara is about getting dressed brilliantly, which is exactly why Thursday morning starts here. Expect sharp tailoring, confident power dressing and the kind of camel you can wear for years. Get there early and get a coffee on the way.
Marni
When:Â Thursday 24 September, 14:00
Where:Â Viale Umbria 42
Why we love it: Marni has always been Milan’s art-school outsider, with colour that behaves like a mood and proportions that are awkward on purpose. Meryll Rogge’s first collection brought softness and practicality to the house. For her second, we’re hoping she pushes the eccentricity further. Look out for the textures, which should feel handmade and very touchable.
Emporio Armani
When:Â Thursday 24 September, 20:00
Where:Â Armani/Teatro, Via Bergognone 59
Why we love it: Thursday closes with an important evening for the Armani house. This is the last Emporio Armani collection designed by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco before Dario Vitale takes over creative direction. Expect easy tailoring, soft colours and a front row paying close attention to what comes next.
Gucci
When:Â Friday 25 September, 14:00
Where:Â Location on the invitation
Why we love it: Demna’s first Gucci show was loud on purpose. Kate Moss and Emily Ratajkowski walked in sparkling gowns, skin-tight separates and reworked outerwear, and everybody talked about it. Now comes the harder test: can he turn a spectacle into clothes and bags people actually want to buy? Gucci matters enormously to its owner, Kering, so every handbag and shoe will be closely scrutinised. We’ll be watching the accessories first. No, really.
Moschino
When:Â Friday 25 September, 17:00
Where:Â Location to be confirmed
Why we love it: Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the pair behind cult Milanese label Sunnei, present their first collection for Moschino. Their own brand is witty, clever and always a little strange, which could be exactly what Moschino needs. It’s the most anticipated debut of the week, and it may also be the most fun.
The Attico
Best for: Dressing up for the after-party
When: Friday 25 September, 19:00
Where: Via Sammartini 36
Why we love it: Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio are marking The Attico’s tenth anniversary with a special evening show. If any brand knows how to throw a party, it’s this one. Expect sequins, sharp shoulders and dresses made for nights you won’t remember. Don’t make any plans for after.
Dolce&Gabbana
When:Â Saturday 26 September, 12:30
Where:Â Metropol, Viale Piave 24
Why we love it: Saturday is the busiest day of the week, with Ferragamo at 11:30, Dolce&Gabbana an hour later, MSGM and Laura Biagiotti in the afternoon, and Bottega Veneta that evening. Dolce&Gabbana is the midday highlight. Think lace, leopard, corsetry and Sicilian romance, served at full volume. Hear, hear.
Bottega Veneta
Best for: The big Saturday-night moment
When: Saturday 26 September, 20:00
Where: Location on the invitation
Why we love it: Louise Trotter presents her third collection for Bottega Veneta, and this is where her vision should really settle in. With Bottega, the craftsmanship tells you everything. Look for the famous intrecciato weave, sculpted bags and the shapes likely to become the house’s next icons. The late Saturday slot makes it the ideal final show before dinner.
Giorgio Armani
Best for: Elegance and emotion
When: Sunday 27 September, 11:00
Where: Armani/Teatro, Via Bergognone 59
Why we love it: The Giorgio Armani show traditionally closes the physical schedule, and a year after the loss of its founder, it will be one of the most emotional hours of the week. There’ll be flowing tailoring, soft neutrals and evening pieces made to move beautifully, without any gimmicks. Bring tissues. We will.
Also on our radar
Ferragamo (Saturday, 11:30) is a must for anyone who loves beautifully made leather. Etro (Wednesday, 19:00) is the best show of the week for print. Missoni and MM6 Maison Margiela are both on Wednesday afternoon. Look out for newcomers too: Marques’Almeida makes its official Milan debut on Sunday, and Portugal’s Miguel Vieira and Mexico’s Neithan Herbert are also joining the calendar. And the notable absence? Versace is sitting out another season, with Pieter Mulier’s debut now expected in 2027.
Still looking for somewhere to stay? Here are the 10 best hotels in Milan for Fashion Week. And when you’re done in Milan, Paris starts on Monday.
