Chef Izu Ani’s Knightsbridge brasserie has the coral banquettes, the royal regulars and the buzz to match. The secret is knowing what to order.
Before I’d even unfolded my napkin, a virgin piña colada arrived at the next table, all thick ice and fresh pineapple, and I’d ordered one within minutes. It tasted of real fruit, not syrup, and it was gone faster than was strictly elegant for a weekday lunch. That first sip set the tone for the afternoon at La Maison Ani. This is a glamorous room with a kitchen that truly sings when it celebrates fresh, sunny Mediterranean flavours, and over the next two hours I discovered exactly which dishes make it shine brightest.
Coral velvet, dark wood and a very good postcode
The restaurant takes up the ground floor of The Carlton Tower Jumeirah on Cadogan Place. It sits on that quiet stretch of embassies and garden squares where Knightsbridge drifts towards Chelsea, a few minutes’ walk from Harrods and a world away from the crowds on Brompton Road. Step inside and the bustle of Sloane Street disappears.
Coral pink banquettes meet dark polished wood, and touches of burgundy keep the pink from turning sugary. The design takes its cue from the Parisian brasseries around the Jardin du Palais Royal, but to my eye it owes just as much to the 1930s and 1950s. There are deco curves, generous tables and a softness that makes you settle in for longer than you planned. In daylight, with the green of Cadogan Gardens outside, the coral glows rather than smoulders, and I loved it all the more for that. Most glamorous London dining rooms are built for the evening and look a little tired at noon. This one looks its best at lunch.
At the back, a bar and open kitchen run the width of the room, all dark timber and the low clatter of pans. I liked being able to see the chefs at work. It takes the edge off the formality, and for all the grandeur the room feels cosy, more Riviera lunch club than hotel dining room. A terrace looks out over the gardens for warmer days, and a private dining room seats up to 14 for anyone planning something more discreet.
A Riviera menu with a London accent
Izu Ani was born in Nigeria and learnt to cook in London. He made his name in Dubai, where the first La Maison Ani opened in 2022, and he has described the London opening as a homecoming. The menu stays faithful to the original formula of French-Mediterranean cooking with a contemporary edge, built on the dishes he grew up loving and the places that shaped him.
In practice, that means a lot of choice. Lobster salad, yellowtail carpaccio and burrata sit alongside light, flaky-crusted pizzas, a generous list of pastas, two burgers and a long run of fish and grills. The doors open at seven for breakfast and viennoiseries, so the room hums from morning to late. With a menu this long, choosing well matters, and my own lunch turned out to be a lesson in exactly that.
Plump prawns, perfect fish and a few personal favourites
I began with the tuna tartare, and the fish itself was a real pleasure: clean, silky and beautifully fresh. It came with a generous layer of creamy avocado, and while I’d personally have enjoyed a slightly lighter touch to let the tuna take centre stage, the quality of the produce was obvious from the first bite.
The prawns were a highlight. They were plump and assertive, with bold notes of basil and olive that tasted of a long lunch somewhere near Nice, which, for an hour or two, is exactly what this felt like. I’d order them again without hesitation. The dorade, delicate and clean, confirmed the kitchen’s real strength. Give it good fish and let it get on with it, and it rarely puts a foot wrong.
The Wagyu burger is there for those who crave a familiar favourite, and the meat itself was rich and well cooked. It comes in a soft, classic bun, though in a room with this much French flair, I found myself drawn more to the dishes that carry the kitchen’s Riviera spirit. If you’re here for the full La Maison Ani experience, the fish and Mediterranean plates are where the magic really happens.
Among the sides, the gratin dauphinois was the star, rich and creamy and full of flavour, with that golden top you fight over with a spoon. It’s the dish that reminds you there is a French kitchen at work here. The chips are freshly cut, a lovely touch, and I’d simply ask for them extra crispy next time.
Order fresh, go Mediterranean, save room
The lesson of the afternoon was clear. Stay with the fresh fish, the meat and the French and Mediterranean dishes the kitchen clearly loves, and you’ll see the full range of what La Maison Ani can do.
On a return visit, here’s how I’d order. I’d start with the lobster salad or the yellowtail carpaccio with its citrus dressing, and add the cauliflower salad scattered with pomegranate and salted pistachio for some crunch. Next would come the spaghetti vongole or the lobster linguine to share, then the sea bream, which is filleted at the table and served with crispy potatoes and chimichurri. And whatever else you choose, don’t leave without the gratin.
Dessert was the highlight of the meal, no contest, and the point where the whole table went quiet. We shared the tiramisu, and I’d happily go back for it alone. It was light rather than heavy, with soft clouds of mascarpone and just enough coffee to wake you up for the afternoon. That’s a rare balance in a dessert so often drowned in cream. If you’re tempted to explore further, the Hokkaido cheese ice cream with roasted strawberries is the house’s best-known finale and the tarte tatin is a classic done with respect. But the tiramisu is the one I’d order again.
A drinks list that doesn’t forget the rest of us
The non-alcoholic list deserves the same attention as the food. My piña colada was no afterthought. It was made with fresh fruit and served with all the ceremony of a proper cocktail, and the alcohol-free creations reportedly outsell the cocktails in the warmer months. Too many smart restaurants hand you a sad elderflower spritz and move on. Here, not drinking feels like part of the fun. At lunchtime it also means you can walk back out into Knightsbridge with a clear head and the whole afternoon still ahead of you.
The verdict
La Maison Ani makes a long lunch feel like a small holiday. It would make an equally fine date night, or the place to take someone you’d like to impress. Come for the coral glow and the people-watching, but stay for the prawns, the gratin and a tiramisu worth crossing London for. Order like you’re lunching by the sea on the Côte d’Azur and it will treat you very well indeed.
Practical information
La Maison Ani, The Carlton Tower Jumeirah, 1 Cadogan Place, London SW1X 9PY. Open daily for breakfast (07:00 to 10:30), lunch (12:00 to 17:45) and dinner (18:00 to 23:00). Expect to spend from around £41 a head, and considerably more once lobster and three courses are involved. Dress code is smart casual. Book at lamaisonanilondon.com. The nearest Tube stations are Knightsbridge and Sloane Square.
